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My view is of a vast range of rugged mountains, a road etched into the side, barely wide enough for two cars to pass, rock face on one side, sheer drop-off of several hundred meters on the other with no guardrails.
The surface of the D81 is in good shape, twisting and looping like an endless ribbon linking the mountains together. At the peak, a town with earth-toned buildings seems to grow out of the side of the hill. Continuing through the town, the road deteriorates with broken pavement and clods of cow poop. Neither are good for motorcycle riding. We have detoured onto the T301. We're in Corsica, halfway through day six of our 34-day two-up motorcycle tour.
The day before, we rode the famous Cap Corse, the D80 around the tip of Corsica. There are cars, motorcycles, and plenty of cyclists pedaling hard up the hills. The cars negotiate the winding roads slowly and with obvious caution. Peter is able to keep a good pace, passing quite easily. There are times when the turns flow perfectly so that it feels as if the bike is dancing. We're so in the groove, that we don't stop, as most people do, at the scenic lookouts. But flying by, I see a coastline that varies from gentle beaches to wide stretches of black sand, steep cliffs and rocky outcrops, quaint cafés, and aging stone houses.
It's best to ride Cap Corse counterclockwise, starting in Bastia, where the ferry from Livorno, Italy docks. Riding this direction, you have the best views and the thrill of being on the edge. The road surface is perfect and you can have quite an aggressive ride. At the end of the day, we agree that this is the best road we've ever ridden and we still have many more to go.
We originally planned this bucket-list trip for May 2020, but we all know what happened then. Now, two and a half years later, we can hardly believe we are finally on the road.
Peter mapped the best roads, using a variety of sources, while I researched interesting sites and reserved accommodations. We booked 25 hotels and B&Bs for our 34-day adventure. In total, our route covers 5,000 kilometers (3,100 miles) starting in Rome, north through Tuscany, down the west coast of Corsica, and by ferry to Sardinia. Crisscrossing Sardinia to take the ferry to Sicily. After seven days in Sicily, back to mainland Italy. Ten days exploring southern Italy and back to Rome. In Peter's words, "All roads lead to Rome. Some take longer than others."
Roads in Europe are a lot different from the tame roads in our home province of Ontario, Canada. Riding the twisty, mountain roads is a full-body workout for me. The seat is slippery and it takes me a while to adjust and learn to counter the slide by using arms, legs, and abs.
Our three days in Corsica are all about the ride. We have no plans to stop at specific sites along the way. The roads are in excellent condition with more twisties than you can count and frequent changes in elevation. Peter is in his element, finding the bike as responsive as he remembered. He is learning to like the quickshifter, specially the auto-blipper on downshifts into tight corners. At the end of the day, his grin stretches from ear to ear. I am admittedly quite exhausted. But after a good night's rest, we're on our way again.
We leave Corsica on the morning ferry from Bonifacio. In an hour we are in Sardinia. Over the next seven days we criss-cross the island of Sardinia, over hills, along linked hairpin turns to the top of the highest mountain, through valleys, to rocky cliffs on the east coast and golden beaches on the west coast. It is clear that Sardinians are master road builders. The roads are smooth, grippy and beautifully cambered as they flow around the contours of the wooded landscape. Even with the heavily loaded bike, Peter feels comfortable leaning into the turns and powering out of the corners.
The ferry docks in Palermo in pre-dawn light and we set off with some trepidation. Peter takes it easy and luckily the SS118 is smooth and mostly in good condition. I have no idea what will happen if the tire gives out. Will it be a slow leak that will allow Peter to patch and go? Or will the cords start to unravel? The tire holds and we make it safely to our B&B. After much Googling and communication between Peter and Daniele in Rome, they find a tire shop in town with a Pilot Road 4 and arrange for it to be installed. By noon on Monday, we have a new tire and are ready to roll.
The scenery in Sicily varies from dramatic to sublime and the roads are a mixed bag. One memorable site is Mt. Etna, which dominates the landscape in the east. It is worth taking the road to the cable station just for the experience of riding through the lava fields. It's an active volcano; the last eruption was May, 2022, which grew the mountain by 64 meters (210 feet).
Castelmola, a small medieval village at an elevation of 529 meters (1,736 feet) perched high above the popular tourist town Taormina, is a standout. The SP10 zigzags its way up the mountain to the town. It's a dramatic ride and well worth it. From our hotel balcony we have a view of Mt. Etna in the distance, across the surrounding hills and valleys and down to the sea.
Another dramatic adventure is riding the SS163 along the Amalfi Coast in the pouring rain. The legendary road is challenging enough without torrents of rain sluicing down the roadway. Soaked to the skin through my aging rain gear, we decide to cut the ride short and head up the SS366 to our cosy B&B in the town of Pianillo. Two days later, we head back down from the hilltop town in the sunshine and finish the Amalfi Coast Road through Positano to Sorrento. Now I understand the hype. The narrow road is spectacular as it winds through villages set into the steep cliffside. There is not one straight stretch on the route, and many places where you need nifty maneuvering to get by oncoming vehicles.
The days flow as smoothly as the roads. Each day is a new adventure. Special moments stand out, like the time a rider on a Yamaha R1 became our escort on a stretch of highway where there were many speed cameras. He slowed down before each camera, guiding us safely through, then speeding off with Peter working the RT hard to keep up. I have no idea how much he saved us in speeding tickets.
Some things surprised us, like the beauty of the jagged mountains and cliffside towns of southern Italy. There were challenges, like the very narrow, cobbled streets of hill towns, that make turns unwieldy, often on steep pitches. Stuck in a traffic jam on a steep, slippery, cobbled street is no fun and Peter says this was the most challenging part of the ride.
We both agree that if we were to pick just one area for a riding holiday from the places we traveled, it would be Sardinia. It's not just the roads and scenery that are amazing. The people of the island are warm and hospitable. The food, a little different from the fare on mainland Italy, is mouth-wateringly delicious. Ditto the wine.
Too soon, we return the bike to Hertz Ride in Rome and it's back to foot slogging and public transit again. Happily, our Versys 1000 is waiting for us at home.
Post script: Six weeks after returning home, we received a speeding ticket forwarded by Hertz Ride for doing five kph over the limit, on our first day heading out of Rome. That was the first day; we are hoping that there aren't still more tickets to come.
